WVU photo Whether they’re made from old-fashioned wool or innovative performance fabrics, the warmest winter garments insulate, protect against wind and manage moisture, according to WVU fashion scholars.

WVU photo
Angela Uriyo is an assistant professor, fashion design and merchandising, WVU College of Creative Arts and Media.

WVU photo
Debanjan Das is an associate professor, fashion design and merchandising, WVU College of Creative Arts and Media.

Dropping temperatures have many people digging out their old-fashioned woolen underwear and outerwear, while others shop for thermal performance gear made from high-tech materials.

West Virginia University fashion design and merchandising experts Angela Uriyo, assistant professor, and Debanjan Das, associate professor, both of the WVU College of Creative Arts and Media, can discuss the differing environmental impacts of winter fabrics old and new, and explain why layering is essential when bundling up for cold weather.

“Something as simple as layering your clothing can make the difference between being toasty or miserable in cold weather,” said Angela Uriyo, assistant professor, fashion design and merchandising, WVU College of Creative Arts and Media.

“The ability to add and remove garment layers is what helps us regulate our body temperatures and remain comfortable. Using a three-layer clothing system is key.

“Here’s how it works: A snug-fitting base layer draws moisture away from the skin so it remains dry. A middle layer provides insulation by creating air spaces that trap warm air heated by the body,” Uriyo said.

“The outer layer protects you from moisture coming from the outer environment. This outer layer also needs to be breathable, so the perspiration absorbed from the base layer is released. If your outer layer is waterproof, it is most likely windproof.

“For millennia, animal coats kept humans warm in cold temperatures,” Uriyo, said. “When Otzi the Iceman’s remains, mummified for over 5,000 years, were discovered in the Alps in 1991, Otzi was wearing clothing made of hides and grasses that likely provided insulation and waterproofing against the elements. Much later, there’s documentation of layering for warmth during the Roman Empire, and Vikings were adherents of layering, too.

“The lessons are the same for us as they were for the Romans and Vikings: Layer up, keep your layers dry and loose enough to trap air, and block the wind.”

Debanjan Das, associate professor, fashion design and merchandising, WVU College of Creative Arts and Media, said, “Wool is the original performance fabric, valued for its exceptional insulation, even when wet, and its durability under harsh conditions.

“The fiber’s microscopic structure gives wool its unique advantages — it can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture before feeling damp, while its natural lanolin oils repel light rain.

“Being hygroscopic, wool also releases small amounts of heat as it absorbs water vapor, helping maintain warmth as it dries,” Das said. “For centuries, these properties made wool the backbone of outdoor apparel, from soldiers’ uniforms in World War II to hunters’ and mountaineers’ gear.

“By the mid-20th century, scientists began developing synthetic fibers that mimicked or improved upon the properties of natural ones. Materials such as polyester, nylon and acrylic offered enhanced insulation, moisture-wicking ability, faster drying and improved flexibility.

“The invention of GORE-TEX in 1976 marked a breakthrough — a waterproof yet breathable membrane containing over 9 billion pores per square inch,” Das continued. “This allowed vapor to escape while keeping wind and rain out, revolutionizing outerwear design.

“Innovations throughout the 1990s and 2000s led to modern layering systems that are lighter, less bulky and more breathable than ever before, achieving the same warmth with less weight.

“Both traditional and modern materials keep us warm through the thermal principles of insulation, moisture management and wind resistance,” Das said. “But their environmental footprints differ greatly.

“Traditional materials like fur, wool and leather are renewable and biodegradable but raise concerns that include animal welfare, land and resource use, and methane emissions.

“Synthetic materials offer durability and performance but are derived from petrochemicals and contribute to microplastic pollution and long-term waste. Their production is energy intensive and most are not biodegradable,” Das said.

“Today, the focus is shifting toward sustainable innovations that blend performance with environmental responsibility. These include recycled polyester, bio-based nylon, responsibly sourced wool and regenerative agricultural practices.”